A fast country with a slow soul
South Korea is a little larger than Portugal and home to about 51 million people, half of them in and around Seoul. It is modern, clean and very safe, yet full of temples, mountains and old traditions. Two thirds of the country is mountainous, and almost every city has hiking trails above it.
Four things worth knowing in advance
1. Google Maps cannot navigate here
In Korea, Google Maps finds places and public transport, but turn-by-turn walking and driving navigation is still missing. Google is preparing it after approval in February 2026, but has not announced a launch date Check for 2027. Locals use Naver Map or KakaoMap; both have an English interface and show exact metro and bus connections. Download them in advance.
2. Trains are fast and punctual
The high-speed train KTX links Seoul, Gyeongju and Busan. Cities have dense metro and bus networks, paid with a T-moneycard, which you can buy and top up at any convenience store. You do not need a car.
3. Mountains are everywhere, and free
Koreans love hiking; at weekends the trails are full of people in colourful outdoor gear. National parks are free to enter. Trails are well marked, often with steps, ropes and handrails.
4. Politeness and quiet
People are helpful but reserved. Talk quietly on the metro; priority seats at the ends of carriages are for older people. Shoes come off in temples and homes. Tipping is not customary.
In Korea you can fit a palace, a mountain and a grill dinner at a market into one day. It pays to slow down and choose fewer places.
How you will travel
Korean transport is among the best in the world. Prices are approximate, with euro conversions in brackets (€1 ≈ 1,500 KRW, November 2026).
KTX high-speed train
Seoul – Busan in 2 h 10 min to 2 h 40 min, a standard-class ticket about 59,800 KRW (≈ €40). Seoul – Gyeongju about 2 hours, Gyeongju – Busan about 30 minutes Verified: MileAsia 5/2026. Buy tickets in the Korail app or at the station; at weekends it is better to book ahead.
Metro and buses
Seoul and Busan have metros with English announcements. You pay with a T-money card, tapped in and out. A ride costs around 1,500 KRW (≈ €1).
From the airport
From Incheon Airport, the AREX airport train runs to central Seoul, and airport limousine buses go straight to hotels. The journey takes about an hour.
Taxi
Cheaper than in Western Europe and reliable. Book through the Kakao T app; drivers speak little English, so have your address in Korean.
Gyeongju
The high-speed train stops at Singyeongju station outside town; the centre is about 20 minutes away by bus or taxi. The sights in the centre can be explored on foot or by bike.
Prague to Seoul, direct
You can fly from Prague to Seoul without changing. That is rare for long-haul trips, so it is the first choice.
Direct flight
Today the Prague – Seoul (Incheon) route is flown by Korean Air (4× a week) and Asiana (3× a week, since April 2025). Asiana merges into Korean Air on 17 December 2026, so in May 2027 only Korean Air will fly direct, roughly daily Check service and times for May 2027. The flight out takes about 11 hours, the flight back about 13 hours (in summer 2026 departing Seoul at 11:05, arriving in Prague at 17:05 the same day).
With a connection
Flights with a connection are often cheaper, for example LOT via Warsaw, Turkish Airlines via Istanbul or Finnair via Helsinki. The journey gets 4–8 hours longer.
- Google FlightsPrague → Seoul (ICN) 14 May and back 26 May. Compare the direct flight with connecting flights.
- Buy from the airlineIf anything changes or is cancelled, you then deal with the airline directly.
- Entry formalitiesFill in the e-Arrival card no earlier than 72 hours before arrival, or apply for a K-ETA in advance (see Practical).
One of the best months of the year
Mid-May is ideal in Korea: warm but not hot, mostly dry, with fresh green in the mountains. The rainy season (jangma) only starts at the end of June.
Seoul
In mid-May 21–25 °C by day, 13–16 °C at night. A few degrees warmer at the end of the month Estimate: averages.
Gyeongju and Busan
Similar or slightly warmer, windy by the sea. The sea is still cold for swimming in May.
Mountains
Colder and windy on the summits, so take a jacket. Mornings are usually clearest.
Buddha’s Birthday
The public holiday falls on Thursday 13 May 2027, the day before you fly out Check. Temples stay hung with colourful lanterns for several days after the holiday, so you will still see them.
Mountain closures
Higher trails in Seoraksan National Park are often closed in spring because of fire risk. In 2026 they reopened on 16 May. Verified: Korea JoongAng Daily. For the Seoraksan variant, check the date for 2027.
Three cities on one line
Seoul, Gyeongju and Busan lie on one high-speed rail line. The ideal plan is to start in Seoul, head south-east to historic Gyeongju, finish by the sea in Busan, and take the train back to Seoul for the last night before your flight.
Seoul
Gyeongju
BusanWhere to stay and how to find flights
For each base: the recommended neighbourhood and three real places at different price levels. Each link opens Booking with the dates from the itinerary (2 adults). Local sites (Yanolja, Agoda) also work in Korea, so compare prices.
Seoul · 4 nights 15 May – 19 May
Insadong, Anguk and Bukchon in the historic centre: palaces on foot, the metro everywhere, traditional hanok houses.
Bukchonmaru Hanok Guesthouse
Bukchon
€budget Estimate
Guesthouse in a traditional hanok, with the Korea Quality certificate.
Prices and availability 15 May – 19 May →ibis Ambassador Seoul Insadong
Insadong
€€mid-range Estimate
A standard hotel with beds, near the metro.
Prices and availability 15 May – 19 May →Rakkojae Seoul
Bukchon
€€€upscale Estimate
Luxury hanok, an experience for a few nights.
Prices and availability 15 May – 19 May →Gyeongju · 3 nights 19 May – 22 May
The centre near the burial mounds (Daereungwon) and the Hwangnam hanok village: walk or cycle to the main sights.
Maison Mini Hotel
Noseo-dong, near Daereungwon
€budget Estimate
Small hotel right in the centre.
Prices and availability 19 May – 22 May →Gyeongju GG Tourist Hotel
centre
€€mid-range Estimate
Hotel with beds, well placed for cycling.
Prices and availability 19 May – 22 May →HanokInn
Hwangnam-dong
€€€upscale Estimate
A hanok stay in the old quarter.
Prices and availability 19 May – 22 May →Busan · 3 nights 22 May – 25 May
Gwangalli beach: calmer than Haeundae, with a view of the lit-up bridge and the metro to the centre and the coastal trails.
H Avenue Hotel Gwangalli Beach
Gwangalli, by the beach
€budget Estimate
Budget hotel about a minute from the beach.
Prices and availability 22 May – 25 May →Hotel Aqua Palace
Gwangalli, on the beach
€€mid-range Estimate
Right on the beachfront.
Prices and availability 22 May – 25 May →Kent Hotel Gwangalli by Kensington
Gwangalli, on the beach
€€€upscale Estimate
Rooms with a view of Gwangan Bridge.
Prices and availability 22 May – 25 May →Search for flights
The links open a search with the dates from the itinerary. Compare, then buy directly from the airline.
For the direct Prague–Seoul flight, see Flights. KTX bullet train tickets are bought separately (Korail), see Transport.
Check Selected 6 Nov 2026. You book everything yourself, directly with the hotel or airline or through a search site. The links only open a search with your dates. Places are chosen for location and reviews, and nobody pays to be listed. Prices and availability change: read recent reviews and cancellation terms before you book.
Map of places with photos
Every place in the guide on one map. The list is shared: choose who you are and tap the heart on what you want to see. The other person sees it straight away.
Locations are approximate. The “Google Maps” link finds the place, but for navigation in Korea use Naver Map or KakaoMap.
What else, and why it is not on the main route
Seoraksan National Park
Korea’s most dramatic mountains, with granite peaks. The hike to Ulsanbawi rock is tough but short. From Seoul about 2 h 10 min – 2 h 40 min by bus to Sokcho Check. The higher trails are closed in spring, in 2026 until 16 May.
Templestay
A night in a Buddhist monastery with morning meditation and the monks’ vegetarian food. Many temples across the country offer it; book in advance.
Jeju Island
A volcanic island with Hallasan, the highest mountain in South Korea, and the Olle coastal trails. Flights from Seoul and Busan. But in 12 days it would mean a fourth move and an extra flight.
What to look forward to at the table
Korean food is spicy, fermented and shared. Every meal comes with free small side dishes (banchan), which are refilled.
- Korean barbecue – meat grilled right at the table and wrapped in lettuce with garlic and paste.
- Bibimbap – rice with vegetables, egg and spicy paste, great after a hike.
- Kimchi – fermented cabbage, served with everything.
- Bindaetteok – mung bean pancakes at Gwangjang Market.
- Jagalchi Fish Market in Busan – you choose your fish downstairs and they cook it upstairs.
- Hotteok – a sweet fried pancake from street stalls.
The best experiences are often ordinary: breakfast from a convenience store, young people in rented hanbok by the palace, a morning hike with retirees on the mountain above the city.
A few words of Korean
Route ideas
Two variants for 12 nights, departing 14 May and returning 26 May 2027. I recommend three bases. If you want more mountains, choose the Seoraksan variant.
Seoul · 4 nights
Palaces, Bukchon, markets and a full-day hike on Bukhansan.
Gyeongju · 3 nights
Royal tombs, Bulguksa and Seokguram temples, cycling and Namsan mountain.
Busan · 3 nights
A temple by the sea, the Igidae coastal trail, the fish market and colourful Gamcheon village.
| Dates | Where | Nights | How to get there |
|---|---|---|---|
| 14.–15. 5. | Prague → Seoul | – | Direct flight, morning arrival |
| 15.–19. 5. | Seoul | 4 | AREX airport train or bus |
| 19.–22. 5. | Gyeongju | 3 | KTX about 2 h, then 20 min to the centre |
| 22.–25. 5. | Busan | 3 | KTX about 30 min |
| 25.–26. 5. | Seoul | 1 | KTX about 2.5 h, night near the station or airport |
| 26. 5. | Seoul → Prague | – | Direct flight, arriving the same afternoon |
| Dates | Where | Nights | How to get there |
|---|---|---|---|
| 15.–18. 5. | Seoul | 3 | AREX |
| 18.–20. 5. | Sokcho and Seoraksan | 2 | Bus about 2 h 10 min – 2 h 40 min Check |
| 20.–22. 5. | Gyeongju | 2 | Bus to Gangneung (about 1 h), then the KTX-Eum train south, about 4–5 h in total Check the stop in Gyeongju |
| 22.–25. 5. | Busan | 3 | KTX 30 min |
| 25.–26. 5. | Seoul | 1 | KTX |
More mountains, but one more move and a long transfer across the country.
Before you go
Entry
Verified: Czech Ministry of Foreign Affairs Visa-free for up to 90 days for Czech and most EU citizens, passport valid for 6 more months. Czech citizens do not need a K-ETA electronic travel authorisation until 31 December 2026; an extension for 2027 has not yet been announced. Check for 2027: either a K-ETA (10,000 KRW ≈ €7, valid for 3 years) or the free e-Arrival card, filled in no earlier than 72 hours before arrival.
Safety
Korea is one of the safest countries in the world. Check your government’s current travel advice. Trips to the demilitarised zone with North Korea are only possible on an organised tour, with your passport.
Money
Conversions use €1 ≈ 1,500 KRW (November 2026) and are approximate. Cards and mobile payments work almost everywhere. A little cash is handy at markets and on rural buses.
Palaces and temples
Gyeongbokgung Palace costs 3,000 KRW (≈ €2), closed on Tuesdays, free if you wear hanbok Verified 11/2026. A price rise and a change to the hanbok rule from 2027 are under consideration Check for 2027. Bulguksa and Seokguram in Gyeongju have been free since 2023 Verified.
Phone and apps
eSIM, or a SIM card at the airport. Essential: Naver Map or KakaoMap, Papago (translator), Kakao T (taxis), Korail (trains).
Customs
Take your shoes off in temples and homes. Do not point with chopsticks or stick them upright in rice. Hand things to older people with both hands. No tipping.
Hiking
Trails are free but steep, often with ropes and steps. Sturdy shoes, water, a jacket. There are no shops on the summits.
Packing
Layers for the mountains, comfortable shoes for walking all day. Plugs are Europlug/type F at 220 V, so continental European chargers work without an adapter.
In an emergency
Police 112, ambulance and fire 119, tourist hotline 1330 (also in English). The Czech Embassy is in Seoul; Czech Foreign Ministry 24/7 line: +420 222 420 222.
Where to read more
Official information
Republic of Korea – entryCzech Foreign Ministry e-Arrival cardofficial, free K-ETAofficial electronic travel authorisationPlaces
Hiking Baegundae (Bukhansan)Erika's Travel Ventures Gyeongju – guideMileAsia · 4/2026 Bulguksa and renovationTrvlogue · 10/2026 Palace admission fees10/2026Photo credits
Photos come from Wikimedia Commons and are used under the licences stated.